Respecting the tradition with a twist of modernity, below is everything you need to know about the tailors side of the bespoke process.
Getting to know a little about yourself and understanding your wants and needs, helping to inspire and give advice on dressing your body shape.
A very specific set of measures are taken and notes are made by the tailor on your posture and form.
Your measures will then be traditionally translated into a paper pattern to fit your body, taking into consideration proportion and balance.
Your particular garments are made up with calico for a trial fitting, before cutting the real cloth. This allows you to better visualise how your garment will eventually look, draw on pocket positions, improve fit and allows the tailor to order and cut cloth more economically.
Your pattern will have been altered according to the toile fit and pocket positions finalized, your pattern is chalked onto the cloth and cut out leaving the appropriate inlays.
At this stage your suit is “basted together” for an official “first fitting”.
Darts are inserted to shape different parts of the cloth, and the pockets are constructed.
Front facing is sewn on, along with linings with inside pockets and any personal touches you have included. An under-collar is drafted, hand padded and attached.
The sleeves are next put in, this may require an extra fitting. Putting in sleeves is a task that requires much patience and determination to find the correct “pitch/balance”.
Traditional Natural linen and horsehair canvassing is inside all our suits, hand padded to give the garment body and to leave a clean silhouette, the canvas will also expand and decrease in correlation to your body heat.
Half canvas and travel suits are also available on request .