Tailoring

“A man should look as if he has bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then forgotten all about them”

Hardy Amies

Respecting the tradition with a twist of modernity, below is everything you need to know about the tailors side of the bespoke process.

Step one:

Consultation

Getting to know a little about yourself and understanding your wants and needs, helping to inspire and give advice on dressing your body shape.

Step two:

Measures

A very specific set of measures are taken and notes are made by the tailor on your posture and form.

Step three:

Pattern Draft

Your measures will then be traditionally translated into a paper pattern to fit your body, taking into consideration proportion and balance.

Step four:

Toile Fit

Your particular garments are made up with calico for a trial fitting, before cutting the real cloth. This allows you to better visualise how your garment will eventually look, draw on pocket positions, improve fit and allows the tailor to order and cut cloth more economically.

Step five:

Chalk and Cut

Your pattern will have been altered according to the toile fit and pocket positions finalized, your pattern is chalked onto the cloth and cut out leaving the appropriate inlays.

At this stage your suit is “basted together” for an official “first fitting”.

Step six:

Shaping the Cloth & Pockets

Darts are inserted to shape different parts of the cloth, and the pockets are constructed.

Step seven:

Facing, Linings & Undercollar

Front facing is sewn on, along with linings with inside pockets and any personal touches you have included. An under-collar is drafted, hand padded and attached.

Step eight:

Sleeves

The sleeves are next put in, this may require an extra fitting. Putting in sleeves is a task that requires much patience and determination to find the correct “pitch/balance”.

Step nine:

Canvas work

Traditional Natural linen and horsehair canvassing is inside all our suits, hand padded to give the garment body and to leave a clean silhouette, the canvas will also expand and decrease in correlation to your body heat.

Half canvas and travel suits are also available on request .

Step ten:

Hand Finishing

The jacket is completely finished by hand, including traditional signature hand-sewn buttonholes.

*Free alterations for life come with the purchase of any Joseph Jenkins Bespoke Garment.

Want to know more?

Click here to see our Order Guide

Scroll Down